Escape from Hell's Gate

Fischer's Tower

Hell’s Gate National Park in Naivasha offers a unique experience in that visitors can safely venture throughout the park without fear, due to an absence of predators, thereby providing a safe haven for the on-foot explorer among a series of predator-packed parks. Warthogs, zebras, baboons, buffalo, giraffes, guinea fowls, and dikdiks gather on open stretches of savanna grass, punctuated by dramatic, towering columns of basalt rock.  

oh, hello!

battle for a mate 

penguin-eagle?

My friends from Nairobi—Andrew, Cecelia, and Ryan—and I camped on a hill overlooking the park. As darkness fell, we were not alone. We heard zebras clunking around and munching away on grasses, entirely unfazed by our presence. To the east, the lights of Naivasha were visible, and to southwest more lights, here eerie and white, emanated from a distant hill across the park. As time passed into the night, the lights of Naivasha faded, however, the white lights shone on. We eventually concluded that the lights were originating from the Ol Karia Geothermal Station, one of the world’s hottest sources of natural steam.

campsite overlook and fire-makers: Ryan & Andrew

The next morning, we drove to the gorge and walked through the sandstone ravine, carved away by rushing waters of yesterdays. Stone rose up on either side, sunlight shining through the foliage struggling to take root in the rock at the top of the gorge. Little trails of hot water seeped into the space where we walked, between the two walls. The corridor ended at The Devil’s Bedroom, where our guide informed us (through much necessary repetition) that scenes from Tomb Raider had been filmed.

our strong guide

Maasai lady "make-up" by our beautician-guide

overlooking the gorge

Just as we were heading out of the park, rain began to fall, a daily occurrence now that rainy season is fully upon us. A large crowd was entering the park and we took pity on their poor timing. Then we headed on to Naivasha to enjoy our first really meal after two days of snacking, hoping to wait out the rains and hike Mt. Longonot, a dormant volcano just a few kilometers to the east of Hell’s Gate that afternoon. 

a storm abrewin'

The rains persisted and from the base of Mt. Longonot, we decided to call it a weekend and head back to Nairboi. A good decision, it turned out. Upon arriving home, a friend in Nyeri texted me a frantic message; having known that I was in Hell’s Gate, he was concerned for my safely. The news had just reported that flash floods were sweeping through the gorge and taking tourist with them, a tragedy that had never before struck amicable Hell’s Gate. I feel fortunate to have dodged the disaster.

the stormy base of Longonot

footage from the flash floods at Hell's Gate Nat'l Park

and reports:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-17811807

http://www.capitalfm.co.ke/news/2012/04/7-dead-in-hells-gate-flood-disaster/